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Repairs · Leaking water

Air Conditioning Leaking Water Indoors: Causes, Emergency Steps and Costs

A wall unit that drips or leaves a tide-mark has one problem: the water it pulls out of the air is not getting outside. The five causes, what to do in the next ten minutes, what the repair costs, and how an annual service stops it happening again.

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Where the water comes from

In cooling mode the indoor coil runs below the dew point, so moisture condenses on it — litres a day in muggy weather. It collects in a tray and leaves by gravity through a small-bore drain to outside, or via a condensate pump where gravity is not possible. A leak indoors means that path has failed between tray and outlet.

1. Blocked condensate drain

The usual suspect. A narrow pipe in the dark with a constant trickle of water is perfect for algae, slime and the dust that gets past the filters; insects nest in outdoor terminations. Partially blocked, the tray overflows on hot, humid days then behaves for a while. Fully blocked, it leaks every time it runs.

2. Failed condensate pump

Units without a downhill route outside use a small pump with a float switch. When the pump dies or the float sticks, the reservoir fills and spills; some units shut down on a float alarm and show an error code instead. Failing pumps gurgle or hum, and a blocked pump outlet behaves like a blocked drain.

3. Frozen coil thawing

A coil that has iced up through dirty filters or low refrigerant holds far more water than a tray is designed for. When the unit stops and the ice melts, it floods the tray and runs out of the casing. The leak is the symptom; the cause is airflow or a refrigerant leak — see air conditioning not cooling.

4. Installation pitch and pipe routing

Gravity drains need a continuous fall. A pipe that rises over a joist, sags into a belly or was clipped level holds water and air-locks; the symptom often appears months after installation once a little sludge forms. This is an installation fault, corrected by re-routing rather than repeated unblocking.

5. Cracked, mis-seated or dirty drip tray

Trays crack with age or careless cleaning, and a unit knocked or refitted after a service may sit with the tray out of level so water escapes at the low corner. Replacement trays are brand-specific parts.

Emergency steps in the first ten minutes

  1. Switch the unit off at the remote. If water is tracking down the wall towards a socket or the isolator, switch off at the isolator or consumer unit as well.
  2. Catch and contain. A tray or towels under the unit; move electronics, rugs and anything below it. Water runs inside walls, so check the room below if there is one.
  3. Look at the filters. If they are filthy and there is frost or ice visible, the cause is a freeze — leave it off to thaw fully (two to three hours) and clean the filters before the engineer arrives.
  4. Check the outdoor drain stub if you can reach it: dry on a hot day confirms a blockage or failed pump.
  5. Do not restart it to "see if it has stopped". Every cycle adds more water.
  6. Note the pattern (start-up, after an hour, humid days only) and book an engineer, telling them the brand and whether the unit has a pump. Most drain faults are fixed in one visit.

What a water leak repair costs (2026)

Most leaks are cured inside a standard call-out. Parts are modest; the expensive outcomes are the ones left until the ceiling below is stained.

CauseTypical fixTypical cost
Blocked condensate drainFlush and vacuum drain, clean tray, treat against regrowth£80–£150 call-out
Failed condensate pumpReplace pump and float switch£80–£150 + part (usually £80–£250 all-in)
Frozen coil thawingClean filters/coil; if it refreezes, leak repair + re-gas£80–£150 · leak + re-gas £100–£300
Poor drain pitch / air lockRe-route or re-clip drain, add trap or ventCall-out + labour, quoted
Cracked or mis-seated trayRe-seat or replace tray£80–£150 + brand part

Baselines: call-out £80–£150; re-gas £100–£300; service £75–£150; annual contracts £150–£300. See repair costs and servicing costs.

Servicing is the cure, not the unblocking

A leak cleared but not prevented will be back next summer. A competent annual service flushes the tray and drain, doses against algae where appropriate, tests the pump and float, cleans filters and coil so the unit cannot freeze, and checks the drain still falls. Budget £75–£150 per unit per visit, or £150–£300 a year on a domestic contract. Commercial and multi-unit systems belong on planned maintenance for exactly this reason — one blocked drain above a server room costs far more than the contract.

If your unit is new and already leaking, the likely culprit is installation pitch or a pump that was never needed; go back to the installer under warranty before paying anyone else.

Sources & methodology

  • Condensate management and drain-fall requirements per manufacturer installation manuals (Daikin, Mitsubishi Electric, Fujitsu, Panasonic, LG, Samsung).
  • Service scope reflects typical engineer checklists; refrigerant work only by F-Gas certified persons under the GB F-Gas Regulation.
  • Price baselines are 2026 UK figures used across this site: call-out £80–£150, re-gas £100–£300, service £75–£150, contracts £150–£300. Quotes vary by brand, access and parts.

FAQs

Every cooling unit produces condensate, which should run away through a drain pipe or be lifted out by a small pump. Water indoors means that path is blocked, the pump has failed, the drain pipe was installed with a rise or sag, the drip tray has cracked or shifted, or a frozen coil is thawing faster than the tray can cope.
Water near electrics always deserves respect. Switch the unit off at the remote and, if water is running down the wall or near sockets, at the isolator too. Then catch the drips, dry the area and book an engineer. Do not keep running the unit hoping it will stop — it will not, and the water will spread into plaster and flooring.
A blocked drain is usually cleared within a standard call-out of £80–£150. A replacement condensate pump is the call-out plus the part, typically landing in the £80–£250 band overall. Re-pitching a badly installed drain pipe or replacing a cracked tray is priced on the job.
If the drain terminates outdoors at an accessible stub, you can try flushing it gently from outside with a wet-and-dry vacuum on the outlet. Do not pour chemicals into the indoor unit or pull at the drain hose — if the blockage is at the tray end, or the unit uses a pump, it needs the casing opened, which is engineer territory.
That points to a drain that is partially blocked or nearly level rather than fully stopped: light loads drain, heavy condensation does not. It also fits a tired pump. Either way it will get worse — book a visit before the summer peak.
In most cases, yes. A proper service flushes the condensate tray and drain, tests the pump and float switch, cleans the coil so it does not freeze, and checks the pipe fall. At £75–£150 per unit it is far cheaper than redecorating. See our servicing guide for what a service should include.

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